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Chapter 8: Glacier Nat. Park to Lake Chelan, WA
September 5 – September 19, 2002
Canada’s Glacier National Park is not related to the park of the same
name in the US. This Glacier Park is much smaller, and Rt.1, the Trans-
Canada Highway, runs right through it! The main attractions are Rogers
Pass, a National Historic Site, and over 400 glaciers covering one-tenth
of the park’s area. Over 100 years ago, the Canadian Pacific Railway
was desperate to find a route through the Selkirk Mountains to
complete a transcontinental rail line. Risking his life, Chief Engineer A.
B. Rogers traversed the pass in 1882 for $5000.00 and a promise from
the Railway to name the pass for him. Once the rail line was built, it
became the means by which most tourists visited Glacier National Park.
However, the CP grew tired of the toll in lives and money that it took to
keep the rail line clear during heavy winter snows and frequent
avalanches. In 1916, the line was rerouted underground through the 8
km Connaught Tunnel, and visitors stopped coming to Glacier Park.
With the opening of the Trans-Canada Highway
in 1962, Glacier became accessible to tourists
once again.
Mt. Revelstoke National Park
We stayed overnight at Canyon Hot Springs RV Park in Albert Canyon,
halfway between Glacier and Mount Revelstoke National Parks. We
gained an extra hour since switching to Pacific Time at Rogers Pass, so
we decided to use the time leisurely soaking in the hot tub filled with
mineral water from the springs right on the premises of the RV park.
Relaxed and refreshed, we planned to tour Mount Revelstoke National
Park the next day.
Meadows in the Sky Parkway
At the heart of the mountain is the 26-km “Meadows in the Sky Parkway,
which switchbacks through sub-Alpine fir tree forest to flower filled
sub-alpine meadows. I kept thinking of my mother, whose love of
wildflowers was well known, and how she would have loved the
walking trails through fields of red Indian Paintbrush, golden arnica,
and lavender lupines. Ed & I were taken by shuttle from the parking
area to the summit. A short walk to the historic firetower afforded us
360-degree views of the Columbia and Selkirk Mountains and the
Columbia River.
Columbia River seen from the summit
My fearless leader!
At the base of Mount Revelstoke, we walked the 1.2-km “Skunk
Cabbage Trail” through the rain forest and marshland bordering the
Illecillewaet (pronounced illa-silla-wet, Indian for “rushing waters”)
River, whose source is the Illecillewaet Glacier at Rogers Pass.
Illecillewaet Glacier
We saw skunk cabbage with 3-ft. leaves! Although we had hoped to
bird-watch in the temperate rain forest of old growth cedar and
Western Hemlock trees, we caught only quick glimpses of birds that
our dog managed to flush. Duncan had a mini-adventure when he
instinctively leaped off the boardwalk to chase a noise of some unseen
quarry when he landed up to his belly in black muck! I thought for a
minute that we were going to have to pull him out to rescue him but he
managed to jump back up 3 feet or so to safety. Normally he hates
being bathed, but he didn’t object as we washed his legs and belly with
the outside shower before letting him in the motorhome.
Town of Revelstoke
Moving toward Washington state to visit family, we spent two nights in
Mara and two nights at West Bay Beach Resort in Kelowna (rhymes with
“corona”). The climate and landscape changed considerably as we
came down out of the mountains. With temperatures in the eighties, we
were back to wearing shorts and finding it hard to believe that we were
in snow and wearing winter clothes a few days previously. Kelowna
reminded me of the south of France. The Okanaga Valley is wine
country with hilly, arid land supporting the vineyards surrounding Lake
Okanaga. A number of local wineries were open for tours and wine
tasting.
Watching the Canadian TV coverage of the 9/11 anniversary of the
terrorist attacks on the US made me homesick for America. Watching
the anchors from Vancouver was just not the same as watching Katie
Couric or Dan Rather broadcasting from New York City, so close to
where Ed & I grew up. However, I was grateful that we had the
opportunity to spend three weeks in Canada. The people were so
friendly and the customer service in stores and restaurants was great!
We postponed crossing the border into Washington state until
September 12 because of concern about potential delays on the 11th
and our crossing was routine this time. Rt.97 from Kelowna would take
us all the way to Chelan, near Ed’s cousin’s home, and eventually
connect with interstate highway I-90 to take us into Seattle, WA. But
since we hadn’t been able to connect with Jane to firm up the details of
our visit, we decided to spend a few days at a Passport America park
called Lake Conconully Resort, in Conconully, WA. We discovered that
the government had lowered the lake to repair the dam, then diverted
water needed elsewhere for irrigation, which kept the lake low. Algae
and thick vegetation were growing at the edges of the lake, keeping
fishermen away. The good news was that as a result, we were the only
campers. We parked on a bluff overlooking the lake where huge
weeping willow trees shaded the motorhome. The days were sunny and
in the 90’s but dry and quite comfortable. We were able to keep Duncan
and Misty off their leashes the whole time, which made everyone happy!
Jane & Larry's Home
On Sunday the 15th we drove to Chelan where Ed’s cousin, Jane, her
husband, Larry and one of their dogs, Roxie, met us at in the local
Safeway parking lot to show us to their mountaintop home. On the way,
we stopped at Lake Chelan Winery. Some apple orchards, having fallen
on hard times, are turning to planting vineyards. The eastern part of
Washington is not rainy like the coastline but hot and sunny and a good
climate for growing grapes. Larry, a talented artist, designed the label
for the wine bottles for Lake Chelan Winery. His pastel painting was
being duplicated for a mural behind the planned tasting bar. The gift
shop sells wine, fresh produce, and hats & T-shirts for wine
connoisseurs. We sampled their 2001 Pinot Gris and also the sweeter
Muscat, and bought a bottle of the delicious Pinot Gris.
We continued along the shore of Lake Chelan for several miles, then
turned to begin our ascent up the mountain. Near the base, the paved
road passed by a couple of orchards. As we progressed, the road
turned to gravel and started climbing steeply along switchbacks. But
what a view at the top! Jane & Larry bought acreage and built a lovely
home several years ago. The house is built just below the summit to
protect it from fierce winds. The view in all directions is unobstructed
as the mountains are mostly treeless. Dry prairie grass and
tumbleweeds are interspersed with patches of green rows of fruit
trees and vineyards in the distance. The beautiful deep blue of Lake
Chelan shimmers in the sunlight with the foothills of the Cascade
Mountains beyond.
View of Lake Chelan from Jane & Larry's home
We all got better acquainted over a barbecued steak dinner with corn
on the cob and salad with fresh-from-the-garden tomatoes. Over a five-
day visit there was a lot of reminiscing about the Pronovost clan from
years ago and we shared old family photos. It was nice to be with family
and Jane & Larry could not have been more hospitable. We parked the
motorhome outside their house, which they opened to us, and Ed & I
thoroughly relaxed and enjoyed our view. Misty found her way to Larry’
s art studio over the garage and spent a lot of time snoozing in the
warm, sun-filled room. We caught up on laundry and motorhome
maintenance during the day while Jane & Larry were at work and we all
had dinner together each evening. On our last evening together we
went to the lakeside Deepwater Brewing Co. Pub & Restaurant to
celebrate my birthday. A good time was had by all!
It was with some real regret that we said good-bye and headed towards
Seattle. The campground that had room for us was located in Everett,
north of Seattle, and we were faced with dealing with Friday afternoon
rush hour traffic. Instead, we stopped at Lake Easton State Park under
the tall pines next to Lake Easton – and also right next to the I-90
freeway! (There are no “highways” out West, all “freeways”.) What a
shock to encounter traffic noise after all the peace we had enjoyed! Oh
well, was just one night, then we would be off to Seattle.
September 5 – September 19, 2002
Canada’s Glacier National Park is not related to the park of the same
name in the US. This Glacier Park is much smaller, and Rt.1, the Trans-
Canada Highway, runs right through it! The main attractions are Rogers
Pass, a National Historic Site, and over 400 glaciers covering one-tenth
of the park’s area. Over 100 years ago, the Canadian Pacific Railway
was desperate to find a route through the Selkirk Mountains to
complete a transcontinental rail line. Risking his life, Chief Engineer A.
B. Rogers traversed the pass in 1882 for $5000.00 and a promise from
the Railway to name the pass for him. Once the rail line was built, it
became the means by which most tourists visited Glacier National Park.
However, the CP grew tired of the toll in lives and money that it took to
keep the rail line clear during heavy winter snows and frequent
avalanches. In 1916, the line was rerouted underground through the 8
km Connaught Tunnel, and visitors stopped coming to Glacier Park.
With the opening of the Trans-Canada Highway
in 1962, Glacier became accessible to tourists
once again.
Mt. Revelstoke National Park
We stayed overnight at Canyon Hot Springs RV Park in Albert Canyon,
halfway between Glacier and Mount Revelstoke National Parks. We
gained an extra hour since switching to Pacific Time at Rogers Pass, so
we decided to use the time leisurely soaking in the hot tub filled with
mineral water from the springs right on the premises of the RV park.
Relaxed and refreshed, we planned to tour Mount Revelstoke National
Park the next day.
Meadows in the Sky Parkway
At the heart of the mountain is the 26-km “Meadows in the Sky Parkway,
which switchbacks through sub-Alpine fir tree forest to flower filled
sub-alpine meadows. I kept thinking of my mother, whose love of
wildflowers was well known, and how she would have loved the
walking trails through fields of red Indian Paintbrush, golden arnica,
and lavender lupines. Ed & I were taken by shuttle from the parking
area to the summit. A short walk to the historic firetower afforded us
360-degree views of the Columbia and Selkirk Mountains and the
Columbia River.
Columbia River seen from the summit
My fearless leader!
At the base of Mount Revelstoke, we walked the 1.2-km “Skunk
Cabbage Trail” through the rain forest and marshland bordering the
Illecillewaet (pronounced illa-silla-wet, Indian for “rushing waters”)
River, whose source is the Illecillewaet Glacier at Rogers Pass.
Illecillewaet Glacier
We saw skunk cabbage with 3-ft. leaves! Although we had hoped to
bird-watch in the temperate rain forest of old growth cedar and
Western Hemlock trees, we caught only quick glimpses of birds that
our dog managed to flush. Duncan had a mini-adventure when he
instinctively leaped off the boardwalk to chase a noise of some unseen
quarry when he landed up to his belly in black muck! I thought for a
minute that we were going to have to pull him out to rescue him but he
managed to jump back up 3 feet or so to safety. Normally he hates
being bathed, but he didn’t object as we washed his legs and belly with
the outside shower before letting him in the motorhome.
Town of Revelstoke
Moving toward Washington state to visit family, we spent two nights in
Mara and two nights at West Bay Beach Resort in Kelowna (rhymes with
“corona”). The climate and landscape changed considerably as we
came down out of the mountains. With temperatures in the eighties, we
were back to wearing shorts and finding it hard to believe that we were
in snow and wearing winter clothes a few days previously. Kelowna
reminded me of the south of France. The Okanaga Valley is wine
country with hilly, arid land supporting the vineyards surrounding Lake
Okanaga. A number of local wineries were open for tours and wine
tasting.
Watching the Canadian TV coverage of the 9/11 anniversary of the
terrorist attacks on the US made me homesick for America. Watching
the anchors from Vancouver was just not the same as watching Katie
Couric or Dan Rather broadcasting from New York City, so close to
where Ed & I grew up. However, I was grateful that we had the
opportunity to spend three weeks in Canada. The people were so
friendly and the customer service in stores and restaurants was great!
We postponed crossing the border into Washington state until
September 12 because of concern about potential delays on the 11th
and our crossing was routine this time. Rt.97 from Kelowna would take
us all the way to Chelan, near Ed’s cousin’s home, and eventually
connect with interstate highway I-90 to take us into Seattle, WA. But
since we hadn’t been able to connect with Jane to firm up the details of
our visit, we decided to spend a few days at a Passport America park
called Lake Conconully Resort, in Conconully, WA. We discovered that
the government had lowered the lake to repair the dam, then diverted
water needed elsewhere for irrigation, which kept the lake low. Algae
and thick vegetation were growing at the edges of the lake, keeping
fishermen away. The good news was that as a result, we were the only
campers. We parked on a bluff overlooking the lake where huge
weeping willow trees shaded the motorhome. The days were sunny and
in the 90’s but dry and quite comfortable. We were able to keep Duncan
and Misty off their leashes the whole time, which made everyone happy!
Jane & Larry's Home
On Sunday the 15th we drove to Chelan where Ed’s cousin, Jane, her
husband, Larry and one of their dogs, Roxie, met us at in the local
Safeway parking lot to show us to their mountaintop home. On the way,
we stopped at Lake Chelan Winery. Some apple orchards, having fallen
on hard times, are turning to planting vineyards. The eastern part of
Washington is not rainy like the coastline but hot and sunny and a good
climate for growing grapes. Larry, a talented artist, designed the label
for the wine bottles for Lake Chelan Winery. His pastel painting was
being duplicated for a mural behind the planned tasting bar. The gift
shop sells wine, fresh produce, and hats & T-shirts for wine
connoisseurs. We sampled their 2001 Pinot Gris and also the sweeter
Muscat, and bought a bottle of the delicious Pinot Gris.
We continued along the shore of Lake Chelan for several miles, then
turned to begin our ascent up the mountain. Near the base, the paved
road passed by a couple of orchards. As we progressed, the road
turned to gravel and started climbing steeply along switchbacks. But
what a view at the top! Jane & Larry bought acreage and built a lovely
home several years ago. The house is built just below the summit to
protect it from fierce winds. The view in all directions is unobstructed
as the mountains are mostly treeless. Dry prairie grass and
tumbleweeds are interspersed with patches of green rows of fruit
trees and vineyards in the distance. The beautiful deep blue of Lake
Chelan shimmers in the sunlight with the foothills of the Cascade
Mountains beyond.
View of Lake Chelan from Jane & Larry's home
We all got better acquainted over a barbecued steak dinner with corn
on the cob and salad with fresh-from-the-garden tomatoes. Over a five-
day visit there was a lot of reminiscing about the Pronovost clan from
years ago and we shared old family photos. It was nice to be with family
and Jane & Larry could not have been more hospitable. We parked the
motorhome outside their house, which they opened to us, and Ed & I
thoroughly relaxed and enjoyed our view. Misty found her way to Larry’
s art studio over the garage and spent a lot of time snoozing in the
warm, sun-filled room. We caught up on laundry and motorhome
maintenance during the day while Jane & Larry were at work and we all
had dinner together each evening. On our last evening together we
went to the lakeside Deepwater Brewing Co. Pub & Restaurant to
celebrate my birthday. A good time was had by all!
It was with some real regret that we said good-bye and headed towards
Seattle. The campground that had room for us was located in Everett,
north of Seattle, and we were faced with dealing with Friday afternoon
rush hour traffic. Instead, we stopped at Lake Easton State Park under
the tall pines next to Lake Easton – and also right next to the I-90
freeway! (There are no “highways” out West, all “freeways”.) What a
shock to encounter traffic noise after all the peace we had enjoyed! Oh
well, was just one night, then we would be off to Seattle.
